Rei Kawakubo’s protege, Junya Watanabe, detracts from the futuristic deconstructionism which notably defines the style of COMME des GARCONS, and aims for nuanced nostalgia for his own line on the runway. For the past couple of seasons, the characters Watanabe had tapped into evolved from the early American stockbroker to a colonial traveler, then an all-American hunter and now in Spring/Summer 2010, Watanabe brought back the genteel patrician at the country club–of course, all with Watanabe’s Japanese interpretation.
The Spring/Summer 2010 collection begins with some light whites and khaki chinos paired with classic plaid sports jackets adorned ever so cavalierly with patterned pocket squares; then, the struts progressed into short suits that are sometimes whimsically mismatched with brightly printed shorts. The runway segues into Watanabe’s more creative takes on classics as nylon parkas are fused with appropriate short suits to create a pine stripe navy parka and Bermuda combo. Another trend to note in Watanabe’s collection is his take on the traditional Scottish raincoat- Mackintosh. Watanabe sent mackintoshes in varying colors with contrasting collars down the runway paired with rolled up denim that seem lovingly worn-in instead of deliberately patched. The finale of white shirts with off-beat details such as exposed plackets and oversize collage pockets, tucked into white shorts and decorated with oversize printed neckwear end the collection on a summery note. Watanabe’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection is thematically cohesive and very wearable– we are sure the gents will be pleased.