As Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut accompanied the models’ struts down the runway set in the middle of a gorgeous garden in Paris, the contemplative and opulent music provided an interesting aura for Raf Simons’ latest Spring 2010 collection. The march of an array of well tailored suits cinched in with belts, and at times topped off with tough leather trenches points at something seemingly Weimar and disciplined, yet with hints of anarchic edge.
According to Simons, this season is based the idea of “The Second Decade”, where he no longer wants to dress teeange boys and is starting to target the “high-fashion men”. The sense of maturity permeates the runway in sombre, jet black suits with crisp white button downs in the begining. The presentation then progresses into something slightly transgressive with long open coats with arms fashioned from bronze satin and the rest from a darker, heavier knit. Sleeves are removed from the blazers to create an elongated dress vest that is layered over color block knit tops, and translucent snake print tops crawl up the models’ bodies like tattoos. Snakes seem to be a recurring motif in this season’s collection as it fashioned itself metaphorically as belts, and more literally in the form of what seems like a logo on jeans.
A biblical allusion to enlightenment for The Second Decade? Perhaps. All we know is, Simons is getting out there into the more commercial world, and starting to target boys who, like the brand, had grown up and matured into men with banks. Want to catch up with Simons? There’s one more season between now and then to get there.