The character play in Philip Lim’s latest menswear collection from 3.1 Philip Lim is a rather ambiguous one. On one hand, the vibes of a beat poets and artists are distinct through subdued color palettes filled with large splashes of navy, grey and tan in unfussy silhouettes– voluminous navy trenches with soft but broad shoulders, layered over airy grey shirts tucked into cuffed tailored trousers; on the other hand, interesting influences and styles works themselves into new items that seem to develop organically into forms of their own– a baseball jersey inspired white button down tucks neatly into tailored grey cropped trousers, and silky grey jackets with an opulent sheen is paired with shorts of the same material to become a paradoxical niche of sporty and not. There seems to be identifiable traces of character in the collection, yet at the same time, all looks pull together into completely new men.
Aside from the rather obscure but thoughtful craft of the new men and new characters, the other part of the collection seems to aim at removing redundancy. Tee shirts are remade in leather, discarding the need for a leather jacket; double-breasted jacket that is light enough to be worn and tucked as a button down makes layering and neckwear obsolete. Another note-worthy piece in the collection is a suit with double breasted upper in a print that is reminiscent of the army camouflage, yet tailored and colored in such a way that it borders on a vintage image of the space-age. Such is the serendipitous fusions and clashes that seem to present itself into entirely new beings in Lim’s latest collection.
On the last note, this season also marks the launch of the label’s men’s footwear which features a range of items varying from strappy gladiator-inspired shoe/sandals, lace-ups with ankle straps and some tanned dress shoes with simple, minimal lines. Re-creation, evolution and adaptation marks Lim’s new collection, and there is really nothing retro about it. via: WWD