When Christian Dior started the French luxury couture house in 1946, his concept was simple and unrelated to menswear– he wanted to make clothes to embellish the female body. Thus, with a female-centric mission, Dior Homme didn’t appear until 2001 when Hedi Slimane was appointed Creative Director for the label and revolutionized the concept of menswear. Dior Homme started with a little rock and roll and slim-fitted androgynous silhouettes that were as popular with men as they were with women. When Hedi Slimane bowed out in 2007, Kris Van Assche inherited the Dior Homme throne and brought in his own aesthetics. Unlike Slimane’s fitted visions, Van Assche delivers a sense of Oriental deconstructionism with doses of casual, refined classic references that is an interesting twist off the Antwerp minimalism.
Under Van Assche’s creative guidance, Dior Homme’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection is a strong line-up of solid casuals adapted from classic menswear staples. The twist on the classic occurs in shapes and volume, as blazers lengthen, widen, and become more architectural yet wisps around the body, fluid to movement. Easy, breezy comes in both shape and material, as sheer seems to be a running concept that not only dominated the women’s runway but has made its way over for the lads. Thus, in terms of footwear, Van Assche keeps the kicks in line with the rest of the outfit and opts for luxury sneakers that are prevalent but difficult to nail these days. But, if anyone could get it right, there is no doubt Van Assche would hit the right spot as he had with his own Spring/Summer 2010 sneakers that take a major play on wrapped and overlapping bunched laces, and is slightly reminiscent of vintage bondage. Carrying the same design sentiment over to Dior Homme, Van Assche mixes the bundle of laces wrapping the ankle with Slimane’s touch of rock through a zipper running down the heel. The colors are kept neutral and simple as of the label’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection in tan, grey, black and white. Everything remains relatively under-embellished otherwise, and the Dior Homme logo is a small embossed body on the side panel. We do anticipate these to be worn with cropped or cuffed baggy cotton pants alongside airy linen shirts and blazers next season, to keep the casual a tad more interesting and edgier than, well, just casual. images via: Materialiste