Taking a few steps back into the sartorial history, one of the quintessential traditions for men is quite undeniably the Savile Row’s legacy of bespoke tailoring. Slightly over two centuries ago in the 1800s, the English gentry became quite concerned with dressing and they started patronizing tailors to create immaculately constructed suits of personalized style and fit. It is with this demand and desire for impeccable style that “bespoke” arose. “Bespoke” in the term of tailored clothing, quite literally means that a piece is “spoken for” because in old England, the suit or article of clothing created at a patron’s edict always tagged with the patron’s name on the actual fabric.
While the tradition of “bespoke” suits was heavily criticized by some designers and fashion houses for falling behind times and eventually tailors on Savile Row were driven out by mass-produced pieces, the tradition has gradually been brought back into light in the recent years. As the economy dwindles, quality trumps quantity and the mecca of bespoke tailoring is reinvented and adopted by many labels who are determined to create meticulously constructed clothes for all. UK’s BESPOKEN is one such label which executes the regal concept to pitch-perfect precision under modern interpretation.
The young label made up of two families of brothers takes the sartorial philosophy to heart, designing and manufacturing all items in England and works with a tutelage of the most experienced designers and pattern makers at Turnbull & Asser (one of the most prominent shirtmakers in the world today). While BESPOKEN explores and pushes the envelop on contemporary detailing, cut and fit, the label does not compromise on the tailoring traditions.
At this season’s New York Fashion Week, a first glance at the collection wins approving nods from leading tastemakers– a solid collection of gorgeous, fitted classic pieces with a few modern tweaks in a good mix of cut and fit (some suits come across as slightly American with slightly more generous shoulders, and some have the traditional double breasted English suiting with shawl lapel as originally seen on Victorian smoking jackets…). Upon taking a closer look, fun, rebellious details give the items an urban, youthful touch. Lapel pins are brought back in shape of swords for classic dark grey suits for the rowdy pirate in every man; tan topcoat comes with contrast black accents on pockets and collar for a visual jolt; herringbone blazer is marked with color block details and sleek formal wing shirt comes in a contrast of black and white which quite literally takes the old world into the present with surprising relevance. Other stand out pieces include a red plaid double breasted tweed blazer which carries a slight grunge and slight rock-and-roll vibe…a tad more colorful than The Beatles’ dressing but operating on the same idea. Formal vests in both double and single breasted versions seem to be quite the layering focal point as they are worn quite liberally with all sorts of things– button downs, shawl collar sweaters…just to name a few.
For those who didn’t believe that the gentleman can have a measured, street and youthful twist, Bespoken is ready to prove them wrong by bringing a Savile Row tradition of fine dandy dressing back to life, for men who are ready to take on the world with a fresh perspective, purpose and energy.