Robert Geller is possibly one of the most progressive designers with the most imaginative mind and design direction in the menswear industry today. Last season, German men of the 1950s on vacation at the North Sea played muse for the collection, which turned out to tell quite a sartorial fairytale with vivid shades, soft silhouettes and lush layers that peel back like a blossom. This season, Geller takes on the economics of dressing with an everyday concept– how to match items in the wardrobe?
Taking revamped classics that are drawn from all sorts of looks — the olive military-inspired trench, dinner jackets, formal vests, finely tailored suits and tough biker leather jackets…just to name a few– Geller pulls these seemingly functionally and stylistically disparate items into the same look with a non-nonchalant effortless ease, paying “tribute to the beauty of mixing wardrobe elements that don’t always seem to fit”.
Through a galore of creative layering, the collection of contemporary remixed staples crafted with a quiet, youthful elegance, advocates liberation in dressing and revolts against the restrictions of so-called dressing traditions and taboos. In some key looks, an oversize luxurious pile of cream fur scarf takes the street-ready brown leather jacket uptown when completed with a bowler hat topper. And to whoever said one can’t wear flowing, silky plum lounge pants a la Hugh Hefner out with an urban combat ready indigo/black color-blocked trench and combat boots, Geller would beg to differ with a beautiful persuasive case. Other looks that unleashes the freedom to layer pushes the impeccable, opulent gentleman to go on the wild side by pulling a deep plum button down decorated with a elongated flowing silk tie gathered in a drippy bow with a black leather puffy jacket worn over a classic overcoat and finished off with a grunge-rock worthy shredded denim. On a more black-tie side (but without compromising on awe, navy striped wool cape with a fur collar is daringly topped over a regal, plum striped suit.
In Geller’s world, stripes and stripes can exist in an impeccable harmony and vastly diverse fabrics (knit and fur and nylon and wool) can come together in an effective sartorial tapestry that stands out with a cool contempt for rules and boundaries. Geller’s attention to details shine through, as little things such as shreds, an extra panel of stripes or color blocks, or a simple weaved accessory sewn onto a blazer brings classics a new life with a Geller light (a navy striped blazer gets a new look as its waist and cuffs are finished with ribbed elastics).
A collection which tugs at the sartorial heartstrings of man “who marries a modern beatnik cool with the classical luxury of an earlier era”, Geller transgresses through boundaries of age, style, occasion and time with a daring leap that looks pulled together and is never ostentatious.