If there’s anything the fashion world loves, it’s a good punk-rock reference. Trends may fade in and out, but it seems like year after year, season after season, the only influence that actually has staying power is rock music and the devil-may-care attitude that goes with it. And yes, while Dior Homme was under Hedi Slimane’s direction, the label brought the extremely tailored and skinny jeans back and began its traipse down the outlier bad-boy chic lane. In retaining some of Slimane’s vision, when Kris Van Assche took the baton from Slimane, he may have cut the Dior Homme man some slack, but he still keeps the punk-rock vision in plain sight. Meanwhile, for Van Assche’s eponymous label, he exerts a similar punk-rock sensibility to his designs, and it is quite evident through his footwear collection, especially the sneakers which manages to bring a hard edge to the sporty number.
This season, emotional leather and bondage galore are remixed with the carefree and physical sporting sensibility, and a blacked-out palette becomes integral to the collection’s aesthetics. Layers of strappy black laces are wound around the ankle of sneakers, and the lace pattern is either hidden from plain sight in a clandestine placket or hanging all out in plain sight rather haphazardly. Interesting details such as a ruffled soft calf-skin ankle collar gives the sneakers an added visual dimension. Think rigged soles give the sneakers a motorcycle boot vibe, and zippers prove that a white sporty sneaker can still have a unique character that demands attention.