“Exponential growth” is by far the most fitting description of Capsule trade show. Since its inception, the show, orchestrated by the fine folks at BPMW, out grown 1 event space already. And very soon, it will out grown its current home at Center 548 in New York. Apart from its truly unique mix of established labels and cutting edge designers, Capsule’s success is also thanks to the marketplace set-up and a sense of fraternity between all the vendors, even trendsetter Nick Wooster and Jak & Jil‘s Tommy Ton was spotted within. Spread across 3 floors and a tented rooftop, you can see the 150+ labels on display at Capsule New York, 548 West 22nd Street.

Photography: Poe for Freshness

Capsule New York
Center 548
548 West 22nd Street | Map
New York, NY 10011

Much of the news around James Bond of UNDFTD has been generated by his high profile projects for adidas Originals. But on February 15th, the sneaker world gets a reminder that one of the favorite and most successful UNDFTD sneaker collaborations is with Converse, and the Poor Man Weapon. With five past collaborations, including Navy, Gunmetal Gray, Black, and Olive versions, UNDFTD and Converse are teaming up again on a Burgundy capsule collection. The UNDFTD Poor Man Weapon features the Black Flag-inspired UNDFTD logo on the outsole, and in a patch at the tongue, and the burgundy outer is set off nicely by an orange gold lining. The capsule collection is filled out this time around by a tote bag and a MA-1 jacket, both in matching burgundy with the same lining. The collection is timed to coincide with the (capsule) show in Las Vegas, which opens February 15th at the Venetian Hotel and will be available in at UNFTD LV next Tuesday February, at UNDFTD LA, SM, and SL on February 18th, and online on Monday, February 21st. Check out the whole collection after the jump.

It’s pretty obvious what the overall theme was this week: shows – both runway and buyer’s events. From Pitti Uomo in Florence, to Paris Fashion Week, to Bread and Butter in Berlin, and Agenda and (capsule), in our own New York City, which had artistic direction by Dr. Romenelli, who released an inspired Chuck Taylor. The first Green Hornet collaboration, with the PHANTACi and New Balance collaboration released this week, along with a full Bape women’s line – inspired, but a bit confusing. Plus, MCM splashed onto the blogs with a capsule collection done with Phenomenon, which would do Lady Gaga proud. Other fashion news on the higher-concept end was the Junya Watanabe MAN preview of the Spring/Summer 2011 collection. And the one-time soccer hooligan staple Stone Island proved it’s reinvention doubly over this week with two amazing new jackets, while in other soccer news, Nike announced it’s project for the French Football Federation, with a full Sportswear collection and on-pitch kit for the national team. Nike also released a capsule collection inspired by Steven Alan, who got quite a bit of free rein with the sneakers. It was another big KAWS week too, starting with the release of his Companion as interpreted by Robert Lazzarrini, and ending with the release of his lightbulb project for the Standard Hotel. Also in art news, we had a preview of the Damian Hirst exhibit at the Gagosian in Hong Kong. And finally, while some people might be (and others definitely are) sick of the Destroyer jacket, there was news on that front this week too, most notably the video of Edison Chen creating his own at the Nike Stadium. Get the full edit of anything you might have missed this week after the jump.

This week has been slightly crazed at the Freshness office because New York City has been hopping this week. First, (capsule) and Agenda has our calendars filled with Spring/Summer 2011 previews, not to mention a great roof top party to wrap things up with. Then, we learned that Andy Warhol has once bought 2,000 bottles of Dom Perignon with a group of friends. Lindsay Lohan manages to score some cover time prior to jail time; and speaking of time, some people has proven that given enough time and dedication (17 months to be exact) you can become Daft Punk. Aside from this, Nike wrapped things up for World Cup and released what looks like a resolution video, headline–”The Future Has Been Written”. Last but not least, we had a chance to hang out with the Manchester City boys at Sarah D. Roosevelt park for a quick Thursday afternoon soccer pick up, and then Saturdays on Crosby gets a little crowded with Quiksilver and National Forest’s launch. Check out the full scope of a busy week, as we are about to leave summer behind and head into the end of glorious summer days and hell-bent, relentless heat in the giant oven known as New York City.

A passion trickled through the last 60 years, EDWIN of Japan started when K.K. Tsunemi wanted to produce denim locally in Japan.  By the 1960s, the label was known for its innovative fabric and washes.  It was the first to create rigid denim at 16oz.  The first to develop something called “old wash”, which gave denim its vintage look, and the rage of the preppy 80s, stone wash.  After a decade of absence from the US market, EDWIN is making an inroad this season with a formal re-introduction of the brand to US consumers.  Among the collections of selvedge, the leather label and the premium black label collection, there is W-Craft, a limited line meant to test uncharted realms for EDWIN.  This includes a blend of cotton plus rayon plus the more interesting cotton and paper.  Techniques learned from centuries of papercraft, thin paper sheets were applied during the spun process, creating a denim light in weight yet sturdy enough for everyday wear. Each pair also includes a hang tag made from identical paper that went into the production process.  First delivery of EDWIN denim line will begin this fall and be available at fine denim establishments across the US.

If there was ever a setting to be the perfect allegory for the state of fashion market today, then last evening Capsule Show rooftop party would be the one. Lined with brilliant performances by DJ Jus Ske, the band Soft Circle, and Kitsune, the event, hosted by BPMW with kind supports by Belevedere and Heinken, bear resemblances to the current down trotted economy, the nagging rain drops and looming cumulonimbus clouds served as reminders of approaching storms.  Despite which, designers, vendors, retailers, strolled about the outdoor space leisurely, not the least bit ravel by the signs.  Indeed, this industry had its share of upheavals the last few years, the closures of prominent retailers, the bankruptcy of labels, and financial discords of designers.  Still, unfazed and unhindered by the challenges, the industry plows through, just as it had before and since. Long as there is a sense of camaraderie among all, every situation will be overcome.  So raindrop? Storm clouds?  What about them?

Taped seams, crafted silhouettes, and hinted themes, Jeff Staple’s Staple Design collection is never the one to disappoint. For Spring 2011, it’s vibrant graphics, polka-dots, checks and plaids, but always with a surreptitious theme. And of course, the iconic pigeon is back again in caps and tees. Just a perfect balance between street and contemporary.

Revival of archive, resurgence of heritage, these are the themes of 2010 and onward to 2011, with exception of Palladium. After a deep root tapping the previous 2 seasons, the 100+ year boot maker is doing something quite different for Spring 2011 with the introduction of summer boots. As the label’s Bernie Waters explained, boots have transcended beyond the original functionalism genre and into everyday wear. Why not just push that boundary a bit more and create a summer boots instead? Constructed in rip-stop nylon with moisture wicking character, the Palladium boots for summer is light (weight equals to some sneakers), with a seersucker lining for accent.

One of the most celebrated designers of the moment, Mark McNairy, has been rather busy. Not only has he expanded his eponymous collection to include apparel, he has also recently taken on the post of Creative Director for Woolrich Woollen Mills, succeeding Daiki Suzuki. At (capsule), folks from Juncture have spotted the anticipated collaboration between Mark McNairy and Pro-Keds, set to launch in September. Simple in brightly colored suede and gum soles, these are kicks that may look deceptively simple, but will soon become your casual wardrobe favorite because they simply go with everything. via: Juncture

Live from (capsule) NYC is Generic Surplus, who continues to wow the grown-up sneakerheads with simple styles and spot on creative designs. Talk about ventilation for summer? Check out a well ventilated woven retake on plimsolls that are rendered in the classic red, white and blue (and a grey which is not in the picture). While these also come in slip-on, laceless versions, the Generic Surplus Spring 2011 collection is full of highlights. For instance, a grey and white fabric collection of kicks ranging from high-top rubber toe sneakers to mid-top boat-shoe and a low-top plimsolls complete with a leather heel; and last but not least, a stunning collaboration with Denmark’s Wood Wood. Have a sneak peek at what’s to come, and behold the collection’s launch next year!

No it isn’t an optical illusion you seen here.  There are no wires, no stands, nothing…  What you’re seen is a pair of denim standing up-right on its own.  This is a raw of selvedge denim by Naked & Famous, in fact, the heaviest weight ever created at 32 oz.  It is quite rigid yet still wearable.  Already several retailers have expressed interest in Naked & Famous creating more in the future.  This is at the root of the family-own Naked & Famous, not as conversation centerpiece but to experiment and to push the boundary of possibilities of denim can be.  Would you ever think of weaving fine aluminum threads within your selvedge denim? Naked & Famous did, all in order to keep “wrinkles and pleats” in form, even after washes and ironing.  How about cashmere?  Naked & Famous did, produced a limited collection of 16 pairs of all-cashmere denim in part with Barneys New York.  What else would they think of next?

After previewing the upcoming Spring 2011 collection from Freshjive, let’s rewind a little bit and go back in time to visit the Holiday 2010 collection set to release at the end of the year. Freshness has picked out some interesting pieces from the collection to give all a quick overview before we follow up with the look book images. Mixing of materials seems to be key in this upcoming collection as plaid can reside on the same shirt as chambray, and a shell trench is graced with leather accents. An interesting double breasted coat has been rendered in a mix of olive canvas that is quite battle ready, but brought back into the great Americana outdoor with woolen plaid. Another one of our personal favorite is a printed witty writer, Oscar Wilde’s portrait. Last but not least, a mixed panel jersey jacket and matching pants are one of the label’s pushes for the season as well.