Described as a designer who "disregards the universal monotony that plagues menswear", Andrew Buckler'sFall 2010 collection is quite a breathe of the fresh, eccentric air tinted with smell of boundless creativity at this year's New York Fashion Week. Amidst the current menswear directions of reworking classics and keeping things timeless and safe with more classics, suits, plaids and or the lived-out outdoor wear trend, Andrew Buckler pushed boundaries with a pleasantly surprising collection inspired by Jack Kerouac's great American novel On The Road.
As a quick encyclopedic bite, On The Road is a novel about traveling and transitions and is one of the definitive work of the beat generation. The story follows his protagonist, Salvatore "Sal" Paradise across the continent, taking us on an adventure which started out with fifty dollars in the pocket, a lot of enthusiasm, optimism and heart. Very much like the story of the novel, Andrew Buckler's collection is an eclectic one mixing and matching design elements that pushed sartorial boundaries and is aimed for the modern, traveling man in transition.
The show transgresses style and reflects the theme of man in transition not only through space, but also setting, age and time. The presentation started with a quiet rebellion mixing old-school academia looks with avant-garde artistic tendencies by pairing heavy cable knit v-neck sweaters with painterly drippy button downs. In another look, one of the strong pieces in suit of the studied scholar perhaps lies in a classic double breasted pea coat with tough leather accents on shoulders, sleeves and belt. Mixing things up, other characters that come into play include the chic urban outdoor lumberjack where plaids remind us of fall. Aside from more casual, roam-ready pieces, finely tailored grey suit with cuffed shorts worn over leggings and pine-stripe navy suits with a sleek cut and fit made to measure in Italy at Gansevoort Tailors by Andrew Buckler offer quintessentially classic yet progressive dressing for the black-tie occasions.
To highlight the meticulous details, Buckler keeps his palette neutral and cool in a series of greys, blacks and white minus the occasion earth tones. While most items stay monochrome, he also challenges the sartorial taboos of mixing brown, navy and black to surprisingly potency.
Definitely a brand to look out for when pushing the creative envelop without coming across as ostentatious, look out for the collection to hit stores later this year.