For three seasons, Matiere has ebbed largely under the radar, gradually picking up a steady stream of enthusiasts for the brand’s conceptual, street-style influenced menswear.
For AW15, the brand’s designers Scot Shandalove and Jake Zeitlin traveled from England to Hong Kong then France and Japan, before a stop in Italy and Portugal led them back to the US. They sought out both morsels and chunks of inspiration along their circuitous route throughout the world.
“Traveling takes us out of our comfort zones and really goes a long way to keeping the mind fresh and the creativity flowing,” explains Zeitlin. “Not to mention that’s the best way to find unique fabrics and construction techniques, which is Matiere’s foundation.”
The theme of this season is intelligent clothing that offers dual functionality whenever possible. This is perhaps most keenly observed with zip-off sleeves and removable hoods, but is evident in more subtle details like a woven shirt/’shacket’, which can be layered depend on your mood mood or the weather.
They’ve taken Japanese cotton-bonded herringbone and crafted it into functional windproof outerwear, integrating acid washed techniques and deconstruction in non-traditional ways.
Normally a garment is acid-washed after it’s completely constructed. “We only wanted to use the technique on certain panels of our coat to achieve a geometric, graphical look. It makes the coat’s construction very labor intensive. We acid wash the fabric before construction, so there is a huge amount of tonal variety within each wash. After the wash, we cut each panel so that the tones match, based on the fabric’s reaction to the acid in that area. Then we sew the coat together with the non-washed pieces to get the final product.”
In addition, they’ve utilized Japanese double-knit jerseys and cotton/wool/alpaca-blended fleece as well as fine wool shirting fabrics.
Stand-out pieces include a waterproof raincoat, the Rocco, crafted from waxed Japanese nylon that’s been fully-taped, seam-sealed and–keeping on theme of removeable accents–features a removable fish-tale and hood. “The back silhouette it creates is quite sculptural. I love the waxed nylon fabric, magnetic closures, and the zip-off tails. It’s a great mix of form and function.”
The collection’s price point begins at $100 for premium basics, up to $1K for more technical outerwear. www.matiere.com